At the Old Forge Gallery, a centuries-old blacksmith's shop, I rummaged through prints and paintings depicting the area's striking scenery. The artist, Helen Setterington, moved here from Yorkshire 16 years ago. "We came so that I could study the sea and paint the rugged colourful and dramatic north coast," she said. "One day calm, the next day a storm of swirling waves. Just breath-taking and very inspiring."